青藏雙騎行之1:西藏,回家的路 點閱次數:6991 分享至 Facebook

走過天涯,從來只是過客,第一次到西藏,卻有一種回家的感覺,雪域的聖山,高原的聖湖,
像是天然的曼陀羅,吸引人不自覺地踏上朝聖之路。

出發前一天(六月二十五日),中共官方宣佈「入藏証」重新開放,這是三月十四日爆發西藏事
件以來首度鬆綁。自從二月份決定青藏高原騎乘計畫後,國內外朋友關切不斷,尤其在奧運聖
火傳遞期間發生了西藏事件及海外抗議衝突,好心勸阻的力道大增。

飛往金門的機艙上,望著窗外的雲海,不禁自問:「為什麼會走在往拉薩的路上呢?」

從來沒想過要騎單車到拉薩,明知那是歐美和大陸騎士們的熱門路線,四年前到過拉薩以後就
更確定了。那次,一個人從加德滿都到拉薩,走中尼公路從南邊入藏,受到洪水和積雪侵蝕的
道路坑坑洞洞,坐在小巴士內,上下顛簸的程度就像用雪克杯搖晃珍珠奶茶,同車的背包客都
掛了,鄰座人高馬大的比利時人一路上雙眼呆滯,看也不看窗外的壯闊山景,晚上,他像行屍
走肉一樣,走到房間,沒吃晚嶺侚Y就睡,幸好我沒有高原反應,最後,疲憊但是神智清醒地
看著在高原陽光下閃閃發光的布達拉宮,心滿意足……如果騎單車入藏,擔心體力不佳的自己
,昏迷在某張道班的床上,拖累別人。

往前回溯,時間回到今年的春節,Vicky看我神不守舍,決定暫停協力車環中國海的旅程,她先
回台灣,全力支持我在杭州閉關寫小說,對我來說,小說一直是艱難卻無法逃避的任務,苦苦
追尋,卻像海市蜃樓一樣遙不可及,因緣聚集,忽然在伸手可及之處,真是大喜過望,比中了
樂透還要開心,完全忘了體能的顧慮,當場承諾:

「等我完成小說,帶你去拉薩,你在阿拉斯加荒野度過二十七歲生日,如果在青藏高原慶祝三
十七歲生日,別有意義。」

「那我們要回西藏了。」Vicky喜悅地說。

這又牽扯到另一個故事了,Vicky四年前曾接受前世的催眠,發現我們都是西藏的修行人,不過
,這個故事說來話長,有機會再好好聊。

在我專心閉關期間,行動派的Vicky回到台灣,認真打拼,二個月內趕了五十場演講,台灣繞了
好幾圈,還在百忙中規劃路線,籌措旅費和裝備,一個人當三個人用,最後三個星期,我悄然
回台,加入緊鑼密鼓的準備,一一作最後確認,準備啟程。

市面上剛好有兩本關於西藏的書出版,《轉山》的作者謝旺霖接受林懷民老師的「流浪者計劃」
資助,一個人走川藏公路,挑戰兩個月的單車旅行,親身實踐「年輕的流浪是一生的養份」,
自我挑戰,精神可嘉。

很多朋友看了《轉山》,非常擔心我們的青藏旅行,好像我們是「風蕭蕭兮易水寒,壯士一去
兮不復返」的烈士,為了讓朋友安心,我們努力說明:「青藏公路和川藏不同,考量到安全和
體力問題,不會選在條件嚴苛的冬季旅行,而且已經在上海和經營專業車店的車友楊琦討論過
,這條路線從蘭州經西寧、格爾木到拉薩,視野遼闊,坡度相對平緩,橫跨甘肅、青海和西藏
,途經中國兩大鹹水湖─青海湖和納木錯,最高點的唐古拉山是海拔五二三一公尺,青藏是入
藏公路中路況最好的。」 即使如此,先生經營牙醫診所的好友Rebeca放心不下,送了一大包消
炎藥,讓人哭笑不得。

另外一本新書是西藏作家唯色寫的《看不見的西藏》,寫西藏的書很多,大多以外來者的角度
,第一次看到藏人自身的觀點,唯色優美如詩的文筆,搭配生活照片和繪畫,寫來清淡隨意,
隱藏在字裡行間的真摯和悲哀,卻如針刺人,如果有心了解,建議上唯色的博客,上面有豐富
內容和隨時更新的文章。

飛機在金門降落,隨著國民黨再度執政,兩岸情勢改變,原來只限於金門居民和福建台商的小
三通擴大,任何台灣居民都可以使用,只用過一次的金馬證已變成紀念品了。

四年前入藏,在抵達加德滿都當天,正好遭遇毛派游擊隊封鎖首都,下了飛機以後,卻看到庶
民生活如常,很難相信英文報紙上大幅報導的動亂,發生在同一個城市,經營旅行業的尼泊爾
人唉聲歎氣,原來預約的觀光客紛紛取消行程,那時,絕對沒想到毛派會在今年放下武器投入
大選,毛派出人意料的大勝,結束了二百多年的尼泊爾王朝,不得人心的末代國王離開皇宮,
喜馬拉雅山國的民主,露出一線曙光。

政治情勢瞬息萬變,但是變化的背後總是有跡可循,在北京奧運前走青藏,完全是無心插柳,
卻也是多年願望水到渠成的結果,保持高度警戒,不冒進,維持開放心胸,不強求,一向是長
途旅行的原則,如水漂流,自然趨吉避凶。

青藏鐵路開通以後,劇烈改變中的拉薩,在路的盡頭,兩台Jango單車和部分裝備,在 Topeak
公司同仁的協助下,已經在蘭州了,那是這次青藏單車紀行的起點。

到蘭州之前,一路調養疲憊的身心,恢復最佳體能,算是重頭戲開始前的開胃菜吧。

 

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空谷回聲

"Vicky四年前曾接受前世的催眠,發現我們都是西藏的修行人"我前世也是西藏的修行人,难怪见你们两个人如见家人。这里有我写的去青海的游记(因为是参加一个比赛的作品,所以以游人的身份写的)
1,大美青海行上http://user.qzone.qq.com/71756615/infocenter#!app=2&via=QZ.HashRefresh&pos=1340440577
2.大美青海行中http://user.qzone.qq.com/71756615/infocenter#!app=2&via=QZ.HashRefresh&pos=1340440642
3.大美青海行下 http://user.qzone.qq.com/71756615/infocenter#!app=2&via=QZ.HashRefresh&pos=1340440701
之微 於2012-07-07 20:00:34回應 1樓

扎希德勒!謝謝分享~
版主於2012-09-15 20:37:50回應

Has your snoring prevented you from getting good sleep for years? If you have not seen a doctor about this issue, you might be experiencing a dangerous and serious form of snoring associated with sleep apnea. If this rings true, then try not worry!. The article below can help.

If you are unsure whether or not you have sleep apnea, consider setting up an audio or video recorder next to your bed. When you review the recording, watch or listen for choking, gasping or other signs that you are not getting enough air as you sleep. Present your findings to your doctor if you suspect that you do have apnea.

Adjust your CPAP machine. Most machines come with default settings that might not correspond to your needs. You should be able to regulate the airflow: try different settings and choose one that seems to work for you. If you feel like your machine is not working like it should, try changing the settings again.

On easy way to help limit your sleep apnea is to stick to regular sleeping hours. When you stick to a sleep schedule that is steady and consistent, you will be more relaxed and sleep much better. Apnea episode frequency will be greatly reduced if you can get plenty of sleep every night.

Try your best to lay off tobacco and nicotine products. Cigarette smoke can irritate your upper airway causing it to swell up, subsequently hindering your ability to breath during the night. Quitting smoking could therefore, significantly improve your sleep apnea symptoms and will also improve your body's overall health and your feelings of well-being.

Get a chin strap to keep your mouth closed when you are sleeping with a CPAP or BIPAP machine. This minor fabric piece and make sure that your chin stays up and your mouth closed. CPAP machines do not function with open mouths, so a chin strap can really save you.

Weight loss can be a big help for those that suffer from sleep apnea. The condition is common in overweight patients that have larger neck circumferences. Losing weight can significantly reduce the pressure on your airway and improve the flow of air as you breathe at night.

If you have been diagnosed with sleep apnea, it is important to avoid drinking alcohol. Alcoholic beverages will relax the muscles in your throat, which makes it more likely that they will block your airway during your sleep. At the very least, avoid any alcoholic beverages in the evening before you get ready for bed.

If simple changes in your lifestyle, such as regular sleep hours and losing weight, have not eliminated your sleep apnea episodes, it is time to consult with a sleep specialist. The specific causes of your sleep apnea can be evaluated, and an individual treatment plan can be designed for you.

There are several things that can trigger sleep apnea and there are many treatments. Since you have read this article, you have increased your knowledge about dealing with your sleep apnea. Pass this knowledge on to others whose lives may be affected by this condition. A great night of sleep is still very possible for you.

viagrasansordonnancefr.com
JamesGom 於2017-03-29 19:54:06回應 2樓

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